Bali 2024 - Day 1 (March 13)

Finally here!

Our first trip to Bali back in 1995, we walked down a set of rickety stairs to get off the plane. Now, there's a huge new airport. Clearing immigration hasn't changed much, but the Visa-on-arrival is now available to purchase online in advance (which we didn't do). The price is currently 500,000 IDR ($33 when we arrived), and the process was quick and easy.

Once we cleared immigration, we headed to the baggage carousel to wait for our luggage to appear. A porter found us pretty quickly, but they didn't seem as aggressive as they were in years past. He guided me through the new online customs form, grabbed our bags when they finally showed up, and walked us out to the receiving area where there were probably a hundred drivers with signs waiting for their guests to step out of the airport. Made said that 50,000 (about $3.25) would be enough for the tip, but our porter disagreed, so I gave him one US dollar more and he scurried off with that.

The trip to Ubud from the airport is always a bit harrowing. It's best to not watch the traffic at all and trust your driver. Made is still driving the same car he had in 2013, and it's in good shape, so that's a good indicator that we will make it there in one piece.

There is a big new toll road that winds across the Gulf of Benoa and eliminates the need to drive through Denpasar, therefore reducing the time this trip takes.

My sausage feet

Much has changed in the last 10 years, but much is still the same. We began to see things along the way that were familiar, and many places that looked like they hadn't changed at all since our last visit. Made told us about the economic struggles they have been dealing with since covid while I sat in the back seat with my sausage feet and wished I had done something different about my clothes. Even with the AC pumping, I was still a sweaty mess.

The new "house" is in Penestanan, built on property next to Made's home. We have been there before, but this is not an area we are really familiar with, especially with all the new construction. This property has 8 rooms, 4 up and 4 down, with porches and balconies overlooking a lovely pool. There is a parking area for motorbikes and an open dining area where breakfast is served. Off to the side are 3 2-bedroom, 2-bath villas with private plunge pools and separate wi-fi. We are staying in Villa 3. Upon our arrival at Londo House, Kadek presented us with fresh coconuts as welcome drinks.

Welcome drink

We sat and chatted a while, then headed to our villa to shower and change. As tired as we were, we learned a long time back that you can't go to sleep until bedtime or it will be very difficult to adjust to the time change, so we got settled in and came back out to plan the rest of our day.

I discovered while waiting for our connecting flight in Doha that I had left my glasses in the seat pocket of our first flight. Lost and found was no help - I suspect they threw them away. No worries, though. Made said he would take me into town to get new ones - on the motorbike. Now, I always wear a sarong when I'm in Bali, so riding a motorbike means I'm riding side-saddle. This is quite exciting given the traffic in the Ubud area. There were a couple of times I had to tuck my feet to avoid hitting another vehicle. Again, trust your driver!

He took me to an optical shop, where they put me in front of a machine that apparently recognizes when your eyes focus on the projected image. It spit out a receipt, the lady pulled out a case of lenses, put together a mock-up for me to try, and had me read the chart and walk around to be sure the prescription was right. The frames I chose were 200,000, the lenses were 325,000, and there was no charge for the testing. My glasses will be ready in 24 hours and they cost less than $35. Why can't it be that easy at home?

Back on the motorbike to head back to the house, with stops to change money and buy Gudang Garam. Then a walk to find something for dinner.

 

Chicken wrap at Cafe Vespa

We had been staying in Made's bungalows since 2000, and we knew how to get anywhere we wanted to go from there. Now we are in the middle of the village with no real idea of where we are. We did manage to find Cafe Vespa where we had eaten before, so we stopped there. It was a bit pricy, but I was not up for more walking to try to find something diffferent. I ordered the chicken bacon avocado wrap with fries and a soda water, and Ibu ordered a banana milkshake. Turns out they had no bananas (no bananas? In Bali?), so she opted to not get anything.

My wrap and fries arrived fairly quickly. The wrap itself was not a tortilla like we are accustomed to, but something more like a crepe which is a bit more fragile. The filling was mostly lettuce, with probably half an avocado in slices, a few pieces of chicken, and some chopped bacon. The dressing was good and the ingredients were mixed up pretty well. There was a small serving of frozen fries, which were crispy, but I prefer the hand-cut fries we usually get here. This meal was 107,000 (about $7), which is cheap by American standards, but at least twice what we used to pay for something like this.

We made it back to the villa without getting run over or falling in a ditch, then locked our doors and hit the sack for some much needed sleep.

 

Bali 2024 - Getting Here

 It's been more than 10 years since we last went to Bali. Thanks to a very generous gift from a friend, we are making the trip again. 

This time, everything will be different. We are flying with an airline we have never used before (Qatar Airways), connecting through a country we've never been to, into a new airport, and staying in new accommodations. The bungalows where we usually stay have been rented out to long-term tenants, but our Bali family has built a beautiful new hotel, so we will still be able to stay with them.

Our flight leaves Dulles at 9:05 p.m., so after a few hours at work I headed home, threw all my stuff in the suitcase, loaded the car and by about 3:15 we were on the road.

Qatar staff were very friendly, and our check-in was uneventful. I must say that I feel like the security clearance process has gotten easier since the last time we flew. The first leg of our trip was 12 hours and 12 minutes. The flight wasn't full, so we were able to spread out a bit and at least try to get some sleep. In-flight meals were not bad, although breakfast came with what looked and tasted like a cup of sour cream with jam. That got left on the tray.

Even though Qatar is an Islamic country, wines, beers, and liqours were all available on the flight. I was most excited that they had soda water available (seltzer to us) and I drank about 8 cans of it on the first flight. You can see from the picture that these were tiny cans, but at least I drank more than I would have if this wasn't available.

Tiny soda can (deodorant for size)

We had a very short connection time in Doha, so we paid for the meet and assist service. We had expected that this would involve someone meeting us at the plane, putting us on a golf cart or something similar, and zooming us to our next gate. What really happened was that we were met at the plane, helped onto the shuttle bus, and then led through the airport on foot at a very fast pace. I feel like the only advantage to this was that our guide was able to contact the gate to tell them we were on the way. We did also get priority boarding and seats closer to the front of the plane, but it was difficult for Ibu to keep up the pace.

After rushing to get to the gate, we discovered that there was a delay in boarding the next flight. Some mechanical issue had to be repaired.

After some time, we all got on the plane and got settled in. We taxied out and were waiting our turn to take off, when the captain made the announcement that he was not happy with the way the controls were behaving, so we would not be taking this plane anywhere.

Taxi back, gather the bags, disembark. Our 5:30 flight was now rescheduled to depart at 10:30. We were sent to the airport food court for complimentary dinner. There were lots of options - pizza, pasta, sandwiches, Asian, Burger King, KFC - but the process had not been fully explained. I got in line to get some delicious looking Korean chicken and was told that I needed to find out how much the airline was providing for our meal. OK, no problem. Find a staff person, get the boarding pass scanned - we each got 50 Qatari Riyal - a little less than $14. So guess where we ate? KFC.

Qatari KFC

My chicken sandwich meal was only 45 QAR, so I had to bring it up to 50 by purchasing ketchup (1 QAR per packet) and Garlic Buttermilk Mayo (3 QAR). 

When we were finally able to reboard the plane, we were both exhausted. I don't sleep well when flying, even when there is room to spread out, so at this point we had basically been up for about 33 hours.

During this flight, my body decided it had had enough. My feet and ankles swelled so bad I almost couldn't flex my feet. My ankle bones disappeared and we looked like those people in the Kroger commercials.

8+ hours later and about 5 hours later than expected, we finally landed in Denpasar. I was still wearing March-in-Virginia clothes - fleecy top and jeans. I didn't pack anything to change into, because, well, it's been 10 years, and I guess I forgot how oppressive the heat can be when you first get here. Definitely won't do that again.

It was so good to see Made's smiling face in the crowd of drivers waiting outside that airport!

Bali 2013 - Day 7

Today we're headed up to Bedugul to try out the high ropes courses at Bali Treetop Adventure Park.  We planned for an early departure, because it is a long drive, and the clouds roll in shortly after noon, obscuring the views.  So we didn't eat breakfast, just snacked on things we had at the bungalows.  Our friend and driver Nyoman Santra stopped by for a bit to chat and apologize for not being available last night.  One thing led to another, and an hour or two went by before we were finally ready to leave.

Made usually takes us on a quite scenic route to Bedugul, but this time he said we needed to go "the regular way" because he thought there might be some closed roads along his preferred route.  No problem!  

We had nothing else planned, and we know about the clouds, and we've seen the view.  Well, the regular way was, as Made said, a very artistic road - full of very large potholes and places where the road had crumbled away to one lane or less.  But Bali is always an adventure, and we made it through with no damage to persons or property.

By the time we got to Pacung, we were starving and ready for the buffet at Pacung Indah.  We've been coming here for years, but the place is under new management now, so we weren't sure what to expect.  It hasn't changed much.  The staff is still attentive and the food is still good.  They did run out of one of the buffet items while we were there, but they replaced it with another choice, and we did arrive later than usual, after all.  The buffet was 80,000 per person, with soft drinks etc. extra.  The drivers are usually fed separate from their group, but Made is not just a driver, he's family, so we always have him eat at our table.  Not a cheap meal by Bali standards, but it is all you can eat, and the buffet includes salad, bread, rice, noodles, soup, meat and vegetable dishes, krupuk, fruit, dessert and coffee or tea, so it still goes on my list.  Oh, and while we were here, the clouds did indeed roll in to obscure the view, and it even started to rain a bit.

After lunch we continued up the mountain to the Botanical Garden.  There was a fee of 84,000 to enter the garden, which I believe was 12,000 for the car and 18,000 for each person.  Made parked next to the ginormous statue of Kumbakarna Laga and we all piled out.  The entrance to the tree top park is just to the left of the statue.  After paying our fees, we got rigged up and instructed, then we jumped right in.  Macaela and I started on the Green course, and then did Orange.  They were challenging and fun and not too scary.  Jake skipped ahead, starting on the Orange course, then moving on to Red, then Black.  We all three finished up at about the same time, and Jake suggested we all do the Blue course together.  I wasn't entirely worn out, so we headed back up into the trees.  We made it through most of the course, but Macaela and I both lost our arms on the vertical net and had to be brought down by one of the guides.  

Okay, so we didn't really lose our arms, they just wore out and there was no going further.

We all turned in our rigging and stumbled back to the car where Made was taking a nap.  Driving out of the park, the rain really started coming down.  The trip back down the mountain is always faster than going up, and the rain just makes it that much more exciting!  Along the way, Made stopped at a roadside stand and bought some local sweet treats for us to try.  There were some little green ball things full of syrup of some sort, and some banana slices wrapped in some kind of sticky pastry.  Both were topped with finely shredded coconut.  They were good - I wish I had gotten him to write down what they were called.  After that stop, we rocketed down the mountain listening and singing along to American rock music and eating Balinese goodies.  It was a fun end to a long day.

Bali 2013 - The Java Kingfisher

Yesterday morning Macaela and I were out on the porch early in the morning when I noticed something blue across the rice field.  I wasn't wearing my glasses so I asked her to take a look.  It turned out to be the top of a drink bottle, but I launched into an educational moment about the Java Kingfisher.  "If you see a flash of blue in the rice field, grab your camera because it might be the elusive Java Kingfisher."

Meanwhile, there was a dark bird sitting with his back to us in a small tree.  I knew he was there, I thought he was black, and I wasn't really paying attention.  And remember, I wasn't wearing my glasses.  Well, he turned his head, and I saw that huge red beak, and realized that I had been lecturing while my photographic prey sat there right in front of me.  Within a very short time, there were three of us lined up along the edge of the veranda with cameras.  I'm sure we were a funny sight for anyone who happened to be looking back our way.




So here he is, the elusive Java Kingfisher.  The fishing was good, because he stuck around for several minutes.  Thank goodness for digital; that would have been an expensive film moment.









Here he is eating an eel he's just caught out of the rice field.  They really are beautiful birds.

Bali 2013 - Day 6

Now that we've settled in to our regular location, I feel a bit more relaxed.

 Up at 6:00 this morning to shower, get dirty clothes together to take to the laundry, open all the windows to let in the sounds and smells of Bali morning, sweep the porch, fill the water bottles, and catch up on writing.  We've been accustomed to having a big thermos of hot tea delivered to our bungalow each morning around 6:30, followed by breakfast around 8:00, but things have changed.  Made's father had a stroke a while back (and has reached the age of retirement for banjar purposes), so various village and temple responsibilities now fall to Made to take care of.  Kadek has two young children and also has temple and family responsibilities.  So now we're on our own for breakfast.  Not a big deal, since there are several great restaurants within a 10 minute walk.

When everyone was ready, we set out for our day.  We started by dropping the laundry off next door at Agus Laundry, then went out to the road for breakfast at Sari Bamboo.  The food here has always been delicious, freshly prepared, and very reasonably priced.  Their iced lemon tea is just about perfect, too.  Macaela had banana juice and banana jaffle, followed up with pisang goreng (fried bananas).  I couldn't resist choosing one of the wonderful entrees instead of traditional breakfast fare.

After breakfast, the kids walked back home to lay around and chill for the day.  Ibu and I decided to explore side streets.  We noticed a for rent sign for a joglo style villa with one bedroom and a guest house for only 10 million per month (rupiah, that is), and decided to go check it out.  It wasn't really a side road, more like a side path, but it leads down into the rice fields behind Sari Bamboo.  There were several private villas, some great views, and even a spa if you venture far enough back.

We had not planned to be out and about in the sun, and we didn't have our hats, so when things started to heat up, we headed back to Londo.  Made stopped by to check on our plans, and we decided today would be a good time to visit Tegallalang for more shopping.  It was sad to see the number of shops that seemed to be closed permanently (many were closed for the afternoon due to a local ceremony).  Also, it used to be that you could drive through this village and find a huge variety of carved and painted wooden items - toys, puzzles, windchimes, mobiles, key chains, flowers, sculptures - almost anything.  Now what we mostly saw was shop after shop of the same things.  There are loads of shops selling glass or mirror mosaic things.  It seems like all the imagination and creativity we used to see has been replaced by duplication.

Since we were so close, we asked Made to take us to Petulu (15,000 per person to enter the village) to watch the herons come to roost.  Now, this is something I've done before, way back in '95, and at the time we parked, looked around and said "OK, now we've seen it, can we leave?"  And it is kind of like that; it's a bit dirty, and there's not much to do.  But, I enjoy birds, and it is pretty cool to watch the hundreds (thousands?) of herons come in from all over the surrounding countryside and return to their few favored trees.  You can easily see which trees those are as you drive through the village.  Don't stand on the white parts of the road!  After you've wandered around a bit, you can cross the rice field to the tiny warung and order a fresh young coconut to sip on while you watch the show.  The sign here claims they have the best view of the birds, and the owner also loans out his binoculars.

After all that excitement, we had Made drop us on Jl. Monkey Forest for dinner at Jaya Cafe again.  We ordered tuna steak, baby back ribs, "Chicken Gordon Blue" and a BLT.  All were great, except the BLT, which just didn't make the grade.  We tried to contact one of our regular drivers for a ride back home, but he was taking people to the airport.  So we walked.  Just past Ubud Music on main road, we finally hired transport back to Londo for 30,000 (five years ago, it would have been 10,000).  Off to bed, for there is a big day tomorrow.

Bali 2013 - Day 5

Today is the day we move to our regular Bali home - Londo Bungalows.  But first, the market!  We let the kids sleep when we went the other day, and today they get to experience the chaos.  We bought the Javanese cake things again, this time laying down 5,000 Rp and receiving a package of 10.  We also tried a sweet rice cake (more like a very thin rice crispy treat, only not as sweet), bought some fried peanuts and 10,000 Rp worth of grapes.  We only got a small handful of grapes, but we found out later that they were imported - probably from California - and very expensive.

With treasures in hand, we went back for our last breakfast at Puri Saraswati.  Ibu had not been in the temple yet, so after breakfast, we dressed (for temple) and grabbed the cameras for another look around.  Ibu shot video and I took lots more still shots, then it was time to pack for our move.

By the time Made got there, we had almost everything out on the porch.  He just stood there and stared.  After all these years, he shouldn't be surprised at the amount of stuff we have.  After he determined that we would fit in the car along with all of our junk, he loaded everything in.  We stopped at reception to check out and settle our bill.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that we didn't owe anything.  Some other places we've been charged for the bottled water in the rooms, and apparently since I made my phone calls from the reception desk, they were free as well.

We all squeezed into the car and took off for the printers.  We ended up having to choose new cardstock because both of our cards were made with stock that is now finished.  We ordered 500 cards for each of the three businesses, then asked about labels.  Yay!  They can do them in time, and there is only a 1000 piece minimum.  So all of this for less than $120, and they'll be done in about a week.  Wouldn't happen at home.

After the printer, Made asked if we needed to stop at the store for any supplies.  We figured it would be a good idea, so he took us to the Bintang supermarket just up the hill from the Campuhan Hotel.  We picked up snacks, beverages, cereal & milk, art supplies and shop supplies to take home, and burgers, bacon, onion and rolls for the dinner I'd promised Jake I would cook.  Then, finally, loaded like pack mules, we were dropped off for the walk up the path to Londo.

All of the bungalows have been renovated since our last visit.  I've always preferred the Frangipani because it was the only one with a balcony.  Now, all but the newest bungalows have balconies, most have indoor kitchens and renovated bathrooms.  This time, the kids are too big for all four of us to share two bedrooms, so Ibu and Jake stayed in Kolam, and Macaela and I ended up in Bintang, the new bungalow.  More on this later in a separate post.

Kadek came to see us with the younger children Vika and Komang.  Vika was just a baby last time we were here, and this was our first meeting with Komang.  We visited and chatted and doled out all the clothing and gifts we had brought for our Bali family, then walked down the path to Ibu Putu's for a late lunch.  Ibu Putu's daughters were home visiting from America, and her son Ketut sat down with us for a while and told us about the recycling program he has helped to put in place.  It was great to be able to visit with most of the family and catch up with what everyone has been doing.

The kids headed back home to play cards and use the computer, while Ibu and I walked down the path to check out what's happened beyond the main path.  There is a new restaurant here called Yellow Flower that Kadek has recommended.  It is small and cozy, looks and smells good, and has good prices.  Since we've just eaten, we'll have to check it out later.

Back at the bungalows, we set up the computer for a slide show for Kadek.  We showed her pictures of our home, some of the kids activities, snow, and flowers from home.  Around 8:00, Putu (the oldest daughter) dropped in to say hi and visit for a while.  She was just getting home from school, and still had homework to do, so everyone agreed it was time to break up the party.

Bali 2013 - Puri Saraswati

Puri Saraswati is not a hotel I would have considered if I were choosing on my own.  It is located on Jalan Raya Ubud, right next to the Lotus Cafe, and is owned by the royal family.  The reasons I would not have chosen it are location and cost.  We ended up here because all of the properties we are familiar with were full, and it was recommended by our travel agent.  I can't address the cost of this hotel because a five-night stay was included with our airfare.  As for location, if we didn't have to book a hotel along with our flight, we would have a very limited option on accommodations in the Ubud area because we would never stay on Main Road or on Monkey Forest, both of which we have now done.

Puri Saraswati is a lovely little oasis right on the main road.  The staff is friendly and attentive, and there is a great breakfast included with the room.  Breakfast includes a fruit salad and toast with butter and jam, your choice of juice, coffee or tea, egg, and French toast or banana pancake.  My favorite juice was watermelon.  The first morning I got my egg fried, but it looked more like poached, with the yolk and part of the white still runny.  I stuck with the omelet after that, which was always good.  It has tomatoes and onion, and came seasoned and cooked perfectly.  The banana pancake I ordered had pineapple instead of banana inside, so I tried the French toast the next morning, and it was great.  My only complaint about the service is that when Ibu and I both ordered omelet, they brought them together on one plate.  Everything else was served individually.

The rooms here are clean and comfortable.  My bed had a firm mattress - Jake claimed it was too hard, but nobody else complained - and two big fluffy pillows.  The rooms are air conditioned and have refrigerators.  Our bathrooms had huge deep bathtubs, and the shower head was placed high enough to stand under it to wash your hair, although I think they might be too short for anyone much taller than 5'6" or so.  Thick towels are provided and changed each day.  We had tea served on our veranda one afternoon, and found upon checkout that there was no extra charge.  I'm not sure if this was something they regularly offer, or if we just lucked out.

Attached to the hotel grounds is a family temple, which I recommend visiting while you're here.  Just remember to dress appropriately!  Dance performances are held in front of the temple each night from about 7:00 or 7:30 until just before 9:00.  Tickets are offered for sale along the sidewalk during the day.  Choose a ticket seller you like the looks of and buy from them.  The tickets should all be the same price, but each seller gets a small commission from the tickets they sell.  We didn't attend any of these performances on this trip, but I enjoyed hearing the music while I sat out on the veranda.

There is also a nice pool, but none of us used it while we were here.  They do not have a restaurant; lunch and dinner can be gotten next door at Lotus Cafe or at any of the many other nearby restaurants.

In the end, I found that I loved the location, although my Bali home will always be in the rice fields.

More photos can be found here.

Bali 2013 - Day 4

Another busy day on tap - got to get those orders going so we will actually be able to take our goods home with us when we go!  Made came to pick us up at 9:00 for our return to Suwarsa.  We picked up all the pieces we had chosen from their stock, and chose styles for our stones to go in.  They had combed through the stones and matched them up for earrings and multi-stone rings, and separated them for various styles.  Can't wait to see the finished products!

After we got back to Ubud, we took our T-shirts and totes we had made a few years ago back to Sama-Sama Shop to see if they could fix our screen printing (our web address has changed since we had them made).  We also checked on getting labels made for our Pink Gecko products, but they are made in Java and will take too long.  Plus, there is a minimum order of 6000 pieces.  I can't imagine making that many products!

We walked back down the hill and across the old bridge for lunch at Murni's, another of our old favorites.  I'm sorry to say that the food here has suffered since our last visit.  Our "chicken schnitzel" was actually a thick, heavily breaded, over cooked chicken filet, accompanied by frozen fries and a salad.  The salad dressing had the same flavor as before, but was thicker, so it didn't coat the salad as well.  The prices here are higher than before (as expected), and our lunch cost almost $50.  Macaela says that the milkshake was still the best she's ever had, so I guess Murni's will stay on our list for shakes.  We didn't even try the fried tomatoes and onion rings that we usually get.  I think the lack of fresh cut potatoes scared us.

We still had a stop to make, so we asked Made to come pick us up again and take us to the printer.  We always have our business cards made in Bali because they are so much cheaper than we can get at home, and because we can't get cool cards at home like we get here.  The traffic was horrible, partly due to a ceremony going on further up the road, and parking was not available because we had come at the peak of the lunch hour at Ibu Oka's.  Made suggested we turn around and try again early tomorrow.  We agreed and had him drop us at the market for more shopping.

We went back home to regroup, drop off our purchases and pick up the kids, then we went back out to explore Jalan Kajeng.  This is another of those streets we have walked past for years and never gone down.  There are a lot of little places to eat down here, many with decent prices.  There are also several accommodations and spas.  We chose Fortuna for dinner and really enjoyed it.  The atmosphere was more like the old Bali we are used to, the food was good, and the prices were cheap.  After dinner we headed back home to bed.  Tomorrow we're taking the kids to the morning market before breakfast.  Nothing like an early walk to work up the appetite!

Bali 2013 - Day 3

Market Day!  Ibu and I got up early and walked to the market to experience the local market.  This is not something we've really been able to do before, because we've never stayed this close to the market.  The morning market opens at 5:00 and is cleaned up and closed by 7:00 so arriving at around 6:30, we had already missed most of the excitement.  Even so, it was quite an experience.  The place was packed with people, very few of them were not locals.  We learned pretty quickly that morning market shopping does not work the same way as what we are accustomed to in our regular market shopping.  Ordinarily, you have your eye set on something, you ask the price, then either walk away laughing or begin the bargaining.  If you ask a price at the morning market, you will be charged at least twice the going price.  Watch what others are paying, take out your money and lay it down.  You might still get less than the locals for the same price but you'll get more than if you ask the price.


We bought a large bag of ready to eat krupuk (shrimp crackers) and some Javanese cake things with chocolate sprinkles.  The woman ahead of me had paid less than 5,000 for a pack of ten of these, but this was before I had learned the trick, so I ended up paying 7,000.  We wandered around taking pictures and generally getting in everyone's way - imagine Costco just before Thanksgiving with a couple of people stopping to photograph every display - then we headed back to Puri Saraswati to get the kids and have breakfast.

After breakfast, we all headed back to the market to do our regular shopping.  It was a bit shocking to find that the prices have increased to about three times what we have been accustomed to.  I walked away from many sales because I couldn't bring myself either to pay what I thought we'd bargain down to, or to try to bargain down to what I wanted to pay.  We did manage to get some good deals on some clothes for personal use and a few new items for the shop.  It was a troubling trip through the market - I can't remember ever having the vendors really beg me to buy.  The new market buildings are pretty on the outside, but I don't think they make the market better for either the vendors or the shoppers.  I'm sure that the rent on spaces is much higher now, and that, along with the economy, plays into the lack of deals to be found here.

We walked out of the market by way of the back street which intersects Jalan Dewi Sita near the soccer field.  We found a little restaurant with decent prices and decided to stop for lunch.  Ayuk's Warung faces the side street, and is a restaurant, money changer and wood carver's shop all in one.  While we waited for our food we wandered around the shop.  We have purchased from Ayuk in the past, and his shop hasn't changed much.  You can get good quality wood carvings here, and he does bargain.  Lunch was good, but not great.  After lunch, the kids walked back to the hotel, and Ibu and I went exploring.  We walked down Jl. Dewi Sita to Jl. Hanoman, back to Jl. Raya Ubud and past the market to the hotel.  Lots of new glass-front shops with very expensive goods for sale, and a Polo shop every half-block.  Okay, not really, but I've seen at least four of them in downtown Ubud, and the prices are not good.  $62 for a shirt?  I think not.

Back at the hotel, I finally dragged out the laptop to work on photos and start my blogging.  Unfortunately, the free wi-fi is not strong enough to easily access the internet from the back of the property where our bungalow was located.  Then I discovered that my laptop has succumbed to old age, and was operating so slowly that I'd never be able to get any work done.  No problem, Macaela has hers.  Only I've never used hers to access my Google account before, and when someone tried logging into my account a few months ago, I accepted Google's double authentication procedure.  So they sent me a text with a code.  To my Sprint phone.  Which I can't use here.  Ugh!  So I started the lengthy process of getting Google to give me access.  Who remembers when you started using Google?  Neither do I!

In the afternoon, we went out to check out Jalan Bisma which we've been walking past for years, but never ventured down.  This is a quiet little street with several places to eat and stay.  We were invited to come see Three Dewi house, so we checked out the place.  It is a nice three-story house set in the rice fields; each floor rents separately.  Unfortunately, we didn't take pictures, and I don't remember the price, but I do have the owner's card, so we can get in touch if necessary.

We opted for dinner at Ayu's Warung on Bisma.  The prices were good, but the portions were small, and the food wasn't very good.  Jake's BLT sandwich had about a half piece of bacon on each half, and the mayo was strange.  The lumpia were very greasy, and Ibu's black rice pudding was gritty.  Macaela and I had chicken steak, and each looked like it was a half portion.  But we had food in our stomachs, so we headed home to get some rest.

Bali 2013 - Day 2

After breakfast, Made came to take us to Celuk.  This is the silver village, and it is an all-day trip for us.  This year we brought a selection of loose stones to have made into jewelry.  It isn't a long trip from Ubud, but there are not many (if any) places to eat there, so we usually try to eat hearty before we go and take snacks for the kids, because we know it means a late lunch.

We arrived at the shop of Wayan Suwarsa, our favorite silversmith, and realized that we had left the stones back at the hotel.  Made and Jake turned around and went back, and Ibu, Macaela and I started shopping.  Our regular people were not there, and I think we overwhelmed the shop girl.  She seemed relieved when Chandradewi finally showed up to assist us.  We chose several new pieces from their stock, and ordered several more to be made with our stones, along with some special pieces for ourselves and for friends.

On our way back to town, Macaela and I noticed a nail salon advertising OPI polish, and we determined that would be where we will go for our manicures later (and maybe pick up some OPI colors on the cheap).  Not to be deterred by our experience at Nomad, we opted for lunch at Jaya Cafe on Jalan Monkey Forest.  This is a restaurant that we had enjoyed on our previous trip, and still rates high with us.  They have good food at reasonable prices, and an upstairs dining area that we prefer.  It gets good breezes, and we can watch the goings-on on the street below while we wait for our food.  Plus, they have free wi-fi, although it didn't work for me - I think you need to be downstairs for best connection quality.

After lunch, we walked back up the street towards Jalan Raya Ubud and checked out several properties along the way.  Sri Bungalows, where we have stayed on our previous trips to Bali, has undergone new construction and enlarged their restaurant.  They used to only have a small dining area, used mainly for breakfast for their guests.  Now they have a full service restaurant with a great looking menu.  One can even choose to dine near the pool or on the edge of the rice fields.  All of their rooms were full, but they were able to show us their new spa and riverside yoga room.

We also looked in at Sagitarius Inn, where the rooms were basic and clean.  They have a good restaurant, the location is good, the grounds are nice and well kept.  Peeking through the gate at the Ubud Inn, we couldn't help but go in.  Everything was in bloom - I don't think I've seen that many flowers in one place since my last country club wedding.  Unfortunately, the room they showed us was less than impressive and smelled musty.  I hope this was not a good representation of what they offer, because I'm not sure the beautiful grounds would make up for the room.

We were all tired from walking, and wanted dinner somewhere close, so we walked the short distance to Casa Luna.  We have always loved the food here, but found the staff to be a bit arrogant.  I come for the Fettuccine a la Casa (I think that's what it's called) - home made fettuccine noodles with ham, asparagus and avocado in a lemon cream sauce.  I get the same thing every time, and it's always great.  We also got to enjoy the live music from next door while we ate.

Bali 2013 - Day 1

Upon arriving at our hotel, Puri Saraswati, at 2:00 a.m., we asked for a wake up call for 7:00.  We were afraid of sleeping most of the day away, and we really don't want to waste any of the short time we have here sleeping.  Not to worry, 6:00 found me awake and ready to go.  Macaela and I were up and on the porch when Putra, one of the hotel staff, came down the path.  We exchanged greetings and he invited us to visit the temple that was attached to the hotel grounds.  It was still some time before breakfast would be served, and the rest of the family was still sleeping so we donned our temple garb and went to check it out.

The hotel is owned by the royal family, and the temple is one of their family temples.  I don't think I've seen any other temple adorned with so much gold.  Due to the early hour, we had the place to ourselves, with the exception of a man quietly going about his cleaning duties.  I'll post more on this later.

We were back in the room in time for our wake up call.  We all showered and gathered our stuff and headed to breakfast.  Everyone was starving, so the generous breakfast that is included with our rooms was greatly appreciated.

We have found that the only way to really get into the Bali schedule (being 12 hours off from our usual) is to hit the streets and walk.  With the hotel's excellent location, we had easy access to the market and downtown in one direction and Campuhan and Penestanan in the other.  We walked down Jalan Raya Ubud and checked out a few shops, then headed into Penestanan to visit friends.  Our stop at Londo found nobody home, and lunch time was approaching, so we continued down the path to Ibu Putu's Warung.  Nothing has changed here.  Ibu Putu's smiling face still greets you, and the basic menu of traditional favorites is still the same as it has been for years.  We all had iced lemon tea, the kids and I had chicken satay with rice, Jake and Ibu had carrot salads, and Ibu had french fries.  All this for only about $14.

After lunch we shopped our way back to the hotel and called Made to make arrangements to pick us up later.  The kids wanted milkshakes, so we stopped at Coco Bistro nearby for drinks.  I don't recommend this place.  It was expensive, service was slow, and the milkshakes were small and thin and the kids said they tasted like they were made with UHT milk.

Hurried back to the hotel, and got there just as Made was arriving.  His shock at seeing Jake, who was a little kid five years ago, had him almost speechless.  Made took us to purchase cell phones.  Everyone else in the world can bring their usual phones to Bali and purchase a sim card, but not us.  Cell phone companies in the U.S. (except AT&T) don't work that way.  No matter, we got two cheap phones for about $52 including pulsa, which is the Indonesian equivalent of minutes in cell-phone terminology.  (It doesn't really equate to minutes, and I don't understand it, but that's how it is.)

We chose to go to Nomad for dinner because we had enjoyed it so much last time.  Unfortunately, it was a disappointment.  Of course the prices have gone up, but along with that the service was not as attentive, and the food not as good.  But it was filling, and we were ready to head back and end a very long day.

Bali 2013 - The Adventure Begins

Well, here we go again.  All packed up with clothing, dishes, toothbrushes, toys, school supplies and gifts to give to our Bali friends and family.  Oh, yes, and clothes, toothbrushes, toiletries, and every electronic gadget and camera we thought we might need for ourselves.  The plan was to have Groome pick us up and take us to the airport, but when I called on Tuesday to confirm our pick-up time for the next morning, I was told they didn't have any drivers.  When my friend Robin said "Didn't you get a confirmation number?", of course I felt like a complete idiot.  Why did I not ask for that?  I usually would.  Oh, well, looks like we're driving to Dulles!

The drive wasn't that bad, and my car easily carried us and all our baggage, and in the end we're saving lots of money.  I'm just dreading the drive home after 20 hours in flight.

Our usual flight pattern with Singapore Air takes us from Richmond to JFK to Frankfurt to Singapore to Bali, with the longest leg being about 11 hours, and the total trip lasting about 30 to 32 hours.  This time we are flying

Korean Air from Dulles to Seoul to Bali, with a total trip time of about 20 hours.  That's the up side.  The down side is that we arrive in Bali at about 12:30 a.m. and depart around 1:00 a.m.  Still, it wasn't a bad flight.  I just wish I could sleep better on the planes.  Maybe one day I'll be able to pay that first-class fare and get a bed for the trip.

I am accustomed to the menus provided by Singapore Air - each meal is set out in detail with descriptions of the entree choices.  Korean Air just brings the cart down the aisle and asks "Chicken or beef?"  Even so, everything was pretty good.  The only thing that really didn't appeal to any of us was the cup of tofu that came with one meal.  There was the entree, a roll, and that big cup of tofu.  I tried it, but I've never been a fan of the stuff, so one small spoon for me and one for Macaela was all we ate.  I was thrilled when shortly after meal service, the flight attendants came along with strawberry cheesecake ice cream.

Arrival in Bali and immigration clearance was easy enough.  It was surprising how many people there were arriving at that time.  Apparently there were at least two planes that arrived at about the same time.  None of our luggage had been marked with that dreaded chalk X that Bali is famous for, so customs clearance went smoothly as well.  I don't know if it was due to the time of day, or if the rules have changed, but we weren't accosted by even one porter.

The changes to the airport area and parking are shocking.  There is a new shopping area right outside the terminal where parking used to be, and there is a huge new terminal being built beside the old one.  I remember back in '95 when the plane landed and they wheeled up a set of stairs so we could disembark.  I know change is inevitable, and can be good, but I'm afraid that, as I read somewhere, "Bali is being loved to death."

**I've been asked to explain the chalk X - when baggage arrives in Bali, they use a piece of chalk to make an X on any bags they want you to open for inspection.  This can take some time, and sometimes they want explanations for things that are normal - like diapers for Jake on our first trip with the kids.  One time they wanted us to explain the clothes we brought with us.  When we told them they were gifts for friends (which they were), they told us we needed to get permission to bring that much for gifts, but they grudgingly let us keep them without having to pay.

Here we go again!

So we leave for Bali tomorrow. I've wrapped up everything for the PTA, covered my neighborhood duties, talked to the schools, gotten someone to take care of plants and animals, still have to take care of Girl Scouts. . . I guess I should finish packing! Things seem kind of unreal this time. I guess it's because we haven't been in a while, or maybe because there is so much to do that isn't related to the trip, but has to be done before we leave. It will be truly wonderful to finally get back over there and see all our friends. We all need to relax a bit, and this will definitely do it!

I'll try to fight Bali time and actually post something each day. Photos can be found here. Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Thanks for reading.

Wednesday, 23 November

We had been trying to locate our friend Nina, who was recently married to a man from France. I had been in contact with her by email, so I knew she was around, but nobody that I asked seemed to know where I might find her. Finally I sat down and sent her another email. It seemed really strange to sit in an internet cafe in Ubud and send email to someone in the same village! Her reply came quickly and it turned out she was living right down the street. We had been walking past her twice a day and didn't even know it. On the way to get dinner Tuesday night, the kids and I stopped in to say hi. During our brief visit, Nina invited us to come swim with her, and Wednesday was the day.

We got a bit of a late start, because Macaela was dragging her feet on getting her schoolwork done, but we packed our swim stuff and headed down the road. Of course we visited for a while and caught up on what everybody had been up to, then headed out back to see the monkey and the pool. The monkey was quite a hit with the kids, but the pool called and they were ready. We were joined in the pool by Nina's husband Remi. Remi is one of those lucky people who has found a way to make a living in Bali. He works in Canada and France from his computer. Oh, I wish! Well, anyway, Jake had a blast with Remi tossing him in the pool, and Macaela used flippers to zoom around. We spent most of the day swimming and visiting, and then headed home and slept like logs.

Since then, Nina and Remi have become the very proud parents of a beautiful baby girl.

Tuesday, 22 November

Today was the day we had set aside to travel to Candi Kuning. We always enjoy the buffet lunch at Pacung Indah when we visit Pura Ulun Danu, but this time we headed up there for a very special reason. We went to see Cracker's Bar & Crappatorium, the newest attraction at the Candi Kuning market. When you drive into the market, go straight back to the far left corner. There you will find a stall where you can purchase T-shirts and fabric shopping bags made by bombing widows. Next to that is a stall selling delicious pastries and other baked goods. Then you come to the "Crappatorium." The Crappatorium is the newest and best pay toilet in Bali. It is a bit pricey at Rp 5000 (about $0.50) compared to Rp 2000 to use the toilet in the Ubud market, but OH the difference!! I have heard other people say that toilets in the markets are the absolute worst, and I know I try never to use them except in extreme emergency. This one is the exception - clean, well lit, toilet paper, soap, and western-style fixtures. And it has beautiful sinks. I paid a visit to the men's side as well to check out the facilities and they are just as nice. So, if you find yourself in this part of the world and in need of a toilet, don't balk at the price. You'll have to pay someone, and it might as well be a pleasant experience. Also keep in mind that you are helping to support the Balinese people.

Oh yes, the bar! I almost forgot. Beyond the toilets is an open courtyard with orchids and other plants on the walls, and beyond that is Cracker's Bar. The bar is open for business with large comfortable bar stools, and elegantly simple decor. We had a pleasant chat with Ni Nyoman Suratini, who was on a rotation from Pacung Indah. She explained to us that all of the staff at the restaurant should be able to work at the bar and the shop as well, and that everyone is being cross-trained. The service at the restaurant is always impeccable, so you can expect the same at the bar and grill. The grill is under construction above the toilets, and I'm looking forward to taking a meal there on my next visit. Of course, then I have to choose between the grill or the buffet. Hmmm . . .

Monday, 21 November

We wanted to buy Made a new pair of glasses. He said Denpasar would be the best place to go, and that while we were there, we could shop for fabric. We said that sounded great, and it was determined that we would go on Monday. So, after breakfast and a little shopping, we set out for Denpasar. Along the way, we did the usual ogling out the window at the wonderfully interesting shops we were passing - mostly furniture, but we also saw a bakery with a beautiful selection of birthday cakes in the window, puppies and fish for sale (not in the bakery), floral shops, and many other things I had never seen in Bali before.

While Made had his eyes examined, we all looked at frames and watched TV. Jake helped Made choose just the right frames, and they look great. The total cost for the exam, frames and lenses was Rp 600,000 ($60) and they would be ready in an hour. The children informed me that they were lapar (hungry) and that it was time for makan siang (lunch), so we told Made and he said he knew a good place. He took us to Tiara Dewata. This is a Bali shopping mall with a food court, kiddie rides, and a swimming pool. Lace and I ate at the dim sum stand; we both got noodles with meat, vegetables, mushrooms, crispy fried noodles and broth for $1 each (total meal with tax $2.20). Made helped the kids with their lunch decision and they ended up with pizza and sate ayam (chicken) with white rice. He also bought a plate of Balinese treats for all of us to try. After they finished lunch, Made took the kids to ride the carousel and play in the ball room.

After all that excitement, we headed back to get Made's glasses and then on to the fabric shopping. Although Lace keeps saying I went crazy, I say we exercised quite a bit of self control in not buying a piece of every fabric we liked. Cotton batik in all variety of colors and patterns cost Rp 15,000 per meter, and rayon batik was only 13,000. I think in all we bought about 50 meters. What are we going to do with it all? Ummm . . .

Rainy Sunday

After our adventures on Saturday, we decided to take it easy. The kids could get some extra school work time in, and everyone could get a little rest. Besides that, it was pouring rain! Well, after a while we decided we should go get some lunch, because I didn't feel like cooking. We donned our oh-so-fashionable orange plastic rain ponchos and set out for Murni's. About half-way there Jake complained of having something in his shoe, so we accepted a very conveniently timed offer of "Transport?"

Since it was still pouring, and it was Sunday after all, we decided to make it brunch. We started with onion rings (plain, not spicy) and battered fried tomatoes (yum!) at 17,500 each. The rain was splashing on the table a bit, so we scooted away from the rail. Lace and the kids all got chicken schnitzel (39,000) and I had the chicken chasseur (42,000), each served with fried potatoes and salad. Everything was quite delicious. Oh, and can I get the recipe for that dressing?! Well, by this time the rain was really coming in, so we asked to move to another table. You can't just leave in the middle of a rain like that, so we ordered garlic toast (15,000) and guacamole (19,500) and more garlic toast, and a couple of milkshakes (25,000).

The rain stopped, but by the time we heaved our stuffed selves away from the table, it was raining again. We looked around in Murni's shops for a while, but it became apparent that we were not going to get another clear chance to head home. We negotiated for transport: "How much to Penestanan?" "20,000" "How about 15,000?" "But it's raining?" "15,000?" "Yah, OK" (then we paid him 20,000 anyway). So, back to the bungalow, where everyone but me took a looonnnggg nap (the kids slept through the night). I read a book, played some cards, took pics, smoked cloves, listened to the rain . . .

Sri Bungalows

Location: Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud
Rooms: spacious and clean, nice verandah, AC, ceiling fan, refrigerator, comfortable beds, phone
Bathrooms: basic, clean, thick towels
Pool: small but nice; no sharp tile edges
Breakfast: good selection on menu, delicious!
Staff: friendly and helpful

We never thought we'd want to stay on Monkey Forest Road; it is so busy! But our short stay at Sri convinced us that there can be peace and quiet even in the heart of Ubud. The gardens were lush and well maintained, and a thermos of tea is provided to each room. Internet service is available at 200 Rp/minute.

We noticed that some of the rooms were undergoing renovations, so one would assume they can only get better.

Saturday, 19 November

Today we visited a family in a village up near Tampaksiring. Out of respect for the family's privacy, I'll call our host Mr. P. It was a wonderful visit. Jake was asleep in the car, and Made told us he would wait with Jake. It became apparent very quickly that we needed Made to facilitate communication. I'm working on my Indonesian, and I know quite a few words, but I definitely cannot hold a conversation with anyone. First I can't construct a sentence, and second I can't separate the words very well when I'm spoken to. I'll get there one day!

We were offered beverages, and introduced to the whole family. I think several children from other families nearby came to visit and see the strangers. Mr. P invited us to see his rice fields, which we gladly accepted. We set out through the village and down the road, across a stream, through a gully and up to emerge right in the middle of the fields. The view was incredible. We asked if this was the rice we had come to see, and were told no. We hiked past two or three fields until we came to one that had corn. There was another with beans and other vegetables, and some kind of flower. It almost looked like impatiens. Here we stopped and he told us that these fields were his, along with several rice fields from there to the palm trees (quite a distance). Mr. P pointed out that the rice and the corn was "not so good" due to lack of rain.

Well, the sky had been looking threatening since we started out, and evening was coming on, so we decided to turn back before things got ugly weather-wise. I'm glad we did, because I had not come prepared for rice field trekking. Instead of wearing my trusty Land's End sport sandals, which strap on securely and have gotten me through several Bali trips, I was wearing slip-ons. And slip I did, several times. We got back to the edge of the fields to head down into the gully, I looked down this tremendously steep path. I had been watching my feet the entire way up, so I hadn't noticed exactly where I was going. What a surprise. I guess another reason I was unaware was because somewhere near the bottom when we were coming in, I got ants on my feet. I didn't know what it was stinging my feet, and I tried to ignore it but my mind started imagining all sorts of unknown jungle bugs that could at that very moment be attaching themselves to my unsuspecting tootsies. I sort of yelped, and I started swatting at my feet, so Mr. P turned around and took me by the wrist and led me the rest of the way. He probably thought I'd slipped.

We returned to the family compound, and took loads of pictures. We were invited to go to the family temple, and during the discussion about appropriate clothing (which we did not have with us), the bottom dropped out of the sky and Mr. P's fields got their rain. I sat down with the kids to show them previews of the pics I had taken, and they were thrilled to see themselves looking back out of that screen. We socialized a while longer; Macaela had an audience in all those kids, and she took full advantage of it. She had them all sitting at her feet while she told stories, sang songs, and acted goofy. She even got an umbrella and did a dance in the rain.

Friday, 18 November

After a wonderful breakfast (banana pancake, toast with scrambled egg, egg and tomato jaffle, fruit salad, and hot tea), we headed out to walk around and see what was going on in Ubud. Monkey Forest Road was extremely quiet. On returning from dinner the night before, we had been approached by the manager of one of the restaurants with an offer of free beer if we would just come in and listen to the music for a while. We had declined because we all needed sleep, but it was a little depressing to see so few tourists.

Made had said he would get us around 10:00, so we went back to the rooms to repack everything for the move. We didn't want to offend anyone, so we had Made explain our situation before he loaded the bags in his car. When we got to Londo, we settled right in. The kids went upstairs to work on their schoolwork, and I started taking pictures. It is amazing how much those plants grow in two years. The lotus in this picture was just a tiny thing when we were here last. The rice fields had just been planted, and the fields were calm and glassy.

Well, we can't go to Ubud without a trip to the market on the first day. Lace had packed light - real light - we had to go buy her some clothes. Since we hit the market pretty late in the day, we didn't spend much time. We found what we were looking for (we thought), I did the bargaining, and then whipped out the camera to get some quick shots. I've never gotten market photos before because when I'm there, I'm shopping, and I don't want my bargaining power spoiled by a camera hanging around my neck. We had finished buying, but we had to walk past the shoe men in the courtyard. One man told me I could buy his shoes for "only 1,000 ma'am!" Hmmm, a 10 cent pair of shoes? I'll take 20. I didn't even try to bargain with him. I knew I'd end up paying more than I really wanted to for some shoes I didn't really want.

So anyway, the clothes we got didn't fit, and we had to shop more another day! Whee!