Bali 2013 - Day 13

Today at breakfast we checked our list of things to do and buy while we're here.  We had already marked off the Denpasar fabric district because time and money are tight, and we already have bins and bins of fabric.  We've been able to accomplish most of the things on our list, but there is still some shopping to do so we're heading back to the market.

We enjoyed a relatively lazy morning, allowing it to stretch into the early afternoon, so we decided to get transport instead of walking.  We paid 50,000 for a ride to the market.  This price is up from the 10,000 to 20,000 we used to pay because gas prices have gone up so much and the traffic is so bad.  During the day, you can often walk faster than drive through Ubud!  Anyway, we ventured into the market yet again, this time heading to the upper rear corner where we haven't been on this trip.  Prices back here started as high or higher than prices out front, but came down quickly with a bit of bargaining.  I'm not afraid to walk away if I can't get where I want to be on price, but I really didn't have to walk away from much.  Most purchases I really wanted I was able to get my price on.  The sad thing was that here we were making purchases after 3:00 in the afternoon and it was the first sale of the day for most of the vendors.  It was getting late, so we finished shopping, ending up with a few more shop items, some gifts and a new hammock for Jake.

I bargained for transport home and was able to get a ride for 30,000 from a driver outside the museum.  When we got home, we all showered and got dressed for our special dinner at the home of Made and Kadek.  We spend a fair amount of time with the family, but it usually is in the car or at the bungalows, so visiting and eating at the village house is a treat and an honor.  They went all out for dinner.  We had pig, sausage, lawar, cassava leaf, rice, watermelon, brem, beer, soda and water.  I ate too much, but it was delicious.  Kadek had some beer with me, and explained that after eating pig, you needed the beer to help your stomach.  Well, I don't think I've ever had a problem with eating pig, but I'll have the beer!

After dinner, Made drove us to Bintang for breakfast food for tomorrow, as well as snacks and more supplies to take home, then dropped us off to go home.  Since we got home so late, I turned off all the lights at the bungalow and had everyone step out into the yard and look up.  We can see stars at home, but not like we can see standing in the middle of dark rice fields in Bali.  

So on our last night in Bali, after a wonderful meal in the company of friends, we stood in the dark looking at stars, listening to the gamelan playing in the village and some creature saying "woop" in the rice field.  The temperature was perfect, and our time was too short, but we still have one more day.

Bali 2013 - Day 5

Today is the day we move to our regular Bali home - Londo Bungalows.  But first, the market!  We let the kids sleep when we went the other day, and today they get to experience the chaos.  We bought the Javanese cake things again, this time laying down 5,000 Rp and receiving a package of 10.  We also tried a sweet rice cake (more like a very thin rice crispy treat, only not as sweet), bought some fried peanuts and 10,000 Rp worth of grapes.  We only got a small handful of grapes, but we found out later that they were imported - probably from California - and very expensive.

With treasures in hand, we went back for our last breakfast at Puri Saraswati.  Ibu had not been in the temple yet, so after breakfast, we dressed (for temple) and grabbed the cameras for another look around.  Ibu shot video and I took lots more still shots, then it was time to pack for our move.

By the time Made got there, we had almost everything out on the porch.  He just stood there and stared.  After all these years, he shouldn't be surprised at the amount of stuff we have.  After he determined that we would fit in the car along with all of our junk, he loaded everything in.  We stopped at reception to check out and settle our bill.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that we didn't owe anything.  Some other places we've been charged for the bottled water in the rooms, and apparently since I made my phone calls from the reception desk, they were free as well.

We all squeezed into the car and took off for the printers.  We ended up having to choose new cardstock because both of our cards were made with stock that is now finished.  We ordered 500 cards for each of the three businesses, then asked about labels.  Yay!  They can do them in time, and there is only a 1000 piece minimum.  So all of this for less than $120, and they'll be done in about a week.  Wouldn't happen at home.

After the printer, Made asked if we needed to stop at the store for any supplies.  We figured it would be a good idea, so he took us to the Bintang supermarket just up the hill from the Campuhan Hotel.  We picked up snacks, beverages, cereal & milk, art supplies and shop supplies to take home, and burgers, bacon, onion and rolls for the dinner I'd promised Jake I would cook.  Then, finally, loaded like pack mules, we were dropped off for the walk up the path to Londo.

All of the bungalows have been renovated since our last visit.  I've always preferred the Frangipani because it was the only one with a balcony.  Now, all but the newest bungalows have balconies, most have indoor kitchens and renovated bathrooms.  This time, the kids are too big for all four of us to share two bedrooms, so Ibu and Jake stayed in Kolam, and Macaela and I ended up in Bintang, the new bungalow.  More on this later in a separate post.

Kadek came to see us with the younger children Vika and Komang.  Vika was just a baby last time we were here, and this was our first meeting with Komang.  We visited and chatted and doled out all the clothing and gifts we had brought for our Bali family, then walked down the path to Ibu Putu's for a late lunch.  Ibu Putu's daughters were home visiting from America, and her son Ketut sat down with us for a while and told us about the recycling program he has helped to put in place.  It was great to be able to visit with most of the family and catch up with what everyone has been doing.

The kids headed back home to play cards and use the computer, while Ibu and I walked down the path to check out what's happened beyond the main path.  There is a new restaurant here called Yellow Flower that Kadek has recommended.  It is small and cozy, looks and smells good, and has good prices.  Since we've just eaten, we'll have to check it out later.

Back at the bungalows, we set up the computer for a slide show for Kadek.  We showed her pictures of our home, some of the kids activities, snow, and flowers from home.  Around 8:00, Putu (the oldest daughter) dropped in to say hi and visit for a while.  She was just getting home from school, and still had homework to do, so everyone agreed it was time to break up the party.

Bali 2013 - Day 3

Market Day!  Ibu and I got up early and walked to the market to experience the local market.  This is not something we've really been able to do before, because we've never stayed this close to the market.  The morning market opens at 5:00 and is cleaned up and closed by 7:00 so arriving at around 6:30, we had already missed most of the excitement.  Even so, it was quite an experience.  The place was packed with people, very few of them were not locals.  We learned pretty quickly that morning market shopping does not work the same way as what we are accustomed to in our regular market shopping.  Ordinarily, you have your eye set on something, you ask the price, then either walk away laughing or begin the bargaining.  If you ask a price at the morning market, you will be charged at least twice the going price.  Watch what others are paying, take out your money and lay it down.  You might still get less than the locals for the same price but you'll get more than if you ask the price.


We bought a large bag of ready to eat krupuk (shrimp crackers) and some Javanese cake things with chocolate sprinkles.  The woman ahead of me had paid less than 5,000 for a pack of ten of these, but this was before I had learned the trick, so I ended up paying 7,000.  We wandered around taking pictures and generally getting in everyone's way - imagine Costco just before Thanksgiving with a couple of people stopping to photograph every display - then we headed back to Puri Saraswati to get the kids and have breakfast.

After breakfast, we all headed back to the market to do our regular shopping.  It was a bit shocking to find that the prices have increased to about three times what we have been accustomed to.  I walked away from many sales because I couldn't bring myself either to pay what I thought we'd bargain down to, or to try to bargain down to what I wanted to pay.  We did manage to get some good deals on some clothes for personal use and a few new items for the shop.  It was a troubling trip through the market - I can't remember ever having the vendors really beg me to buy.  The new market buildings are pretty on the outside, but I don't think they make the market better for either the vendors or the shoppers.  I'm sure that the rent on spaces is much higher now, and that, along with the economy, plays into the lack of deals to be found here.

We walked out of the market by way of the back street which intersects Jalan Dewi Sita near the soccer field.  We found a little restaurant with decent prices and decided to stop for lunch.  Ayuk's Warung faces the side street, and is a restaurant, money changer and wood carver's shop all in one.  While we waited for our food we wandered around the shop.  We have purchased from Ayuk in the past, and his shop hasn't changed much.  You can get good quality wood carvings here, and he does bargain.  Lunch was good, but not great.  After lunch, the kids walked back to the hotel, and Ibu and I went exploring.  We walked down Jl. Dewi Sita to Jl. Hanoman, back to Jl. Raya Ubud and past the market to the hotel.  Lots of new glass-front shops with very expensive goods for sale, and a Polo shop every half-block.  Okay, not really, but I've seen at least four of them in downtown Ubud, and the prices are not good.  $62 for a shirt?  I think not.

Back at the hotel, I finally dragged out the laptop to work on photos and start my blogging.  Unfortunately, the free wi-fi is not strong enough to easily access the internet from the back of the property where our bungalow was located.  Then I discovered that my laptop has succumbed to old age, and was operating so slowly that I'd never be able to get any work done.  No problem, Macaela has hers.  Only I've never used hers to access my Google account before, and when someone tried logging into my account a few months ago, I accepted Google's double authentication procedure.  So they sent me a text with a code.  To my Sprint phone.  Which I can't use here.  Ugh!  So I started the lengthy process of getting Google to give me access.  Who remembers when you started using Google?  Neither do I!

In the afternoon, we went out to check out Jalan Bisma which we've been walking past for years, but never ventured down.  This is a quiet little street with several places to eat and stay.  We were invited to come see Three Dewi house, so we checked out the place.  It is a nice three-story house set in the rice fields; each floor rents separately.  Unfortunately, we didn't take pictures, and I don't remember the price, but I do have the owner's card, so we can get in touch if necessary.

We opted for dinner at Ayu's Warung on Bisma.  The prices were good, but the portions were small, and the food wasn't very good.  Jake's BLT sandwich had about a half piece of bacon on each half, and the mayo was strange.  The lumpia were very greasy, and Ibu's black rice pudding was gritty.  Macaela and I had chicken steak, and each looked like it was a half portion.  But we had food in our stomachs, so we headed home to get some rest.

Tuesday, 22 November

Today was the day we had set aside to travel to Candi Kuning. We always enjoy the buffet lunch at Pacung Indah when we visit Pura Ulun Danu, but this time we headed up there for a very special reason. We went to see Cracker's Bar & Crappatorium, the newest attraction at the Candi Kuning market. When you drive into the market, go straight back to the far left corner. There you will find a stall where you can purchase T-shirts and fabric shopping bags made by bombing widows. Next to that is a stall selling delicious pastries and other baked goods. Then you come to the "Crappatorium." The Crappatorium is the newest and best pay toilet in Bali. It is a bit pricey at Rp 5000 (about $0.50) compared to Rp 2000 to use the toilet in the Ubud market, but OH the difference!! I have heard other people say that toilets in the markets are the absolute worst, and I know I try never to use them except in extreme emergency. This one is the exception - clean, well lit, toilet paper, soap, and western-style fixtures. And it has beautiful sinks. I paid a visit to the men's side as well to check out the facilities and they are just as nice. So, if you find yourself in this part of the world and in need of a toilet, don't balk at the price. You'll have to pay someone, and it might as well be a pleasant experience. Also keep in mind that you are helping to support the Balinese people.

Oh yes, the bar! I almost forgot. Beyond the toilets is an open courtyard with orchids and other plants on the walls, and beyond that is Cracker's Bar. The bar is open for business with large comfortable bar stools, and elegantly simple decor. We had a pleasant chat with Ni Nyoman Suratini, who was on a rotation from Pacung Indah. She explained to us that all of the staff at the restaurant should be able to work at the bar and the shop as well, and that everyone is being cross-trained. The service at the restaurant is always impeccable, so you can expect the same at the bar and grill. The grill is under construction above the toilets, and I'm looking forward to taking a meal there on my next visit. Of course, then I have to choose between the grill or the buffet. Hmmm . . .

Friday, 18 November

After a wonderful breakfast (banana pancake, toast with scrambled egg, egg and tomato jaffle, fruit salad, and hot tea), we headed out to walk around and see what was going on in Ubud. Monkey Forest Road was extremely quiet. On returning from dinner the night before, we had been approached by the manager of one of the restaurants with an offer of free beer if we would just come in and listen to the music for a while. We had declined because we all needed sleep, but it was a little depressing to see so few tourists.

Made had said he would get us around 10:00, so we went back to the rooms to repack everything for the move. We didn't want to offend anyone, so we had Made explain our situation before he loaded the bags in his car. When we got to Londo, we settled right in. The kids went upstairs to work on their schoolwork, and I started taking pictures. It is amazing how much those plants grow in two years. The lotus in this picture was just a tiny thing when we were here last. The rice fields had just been planted, and the fields were calm and glassy.

Well, we can't go to Ubud without a trip to the market on the first day. Lace had packed light - real light - we had to go buy her some clothes. Since we hit the market pretty late in the day, we didn't spend much time. We found what we were looking for (we thought), I did the bargaining, and then whipped out the camera to get some quick shots. I've never gotten market photos before because when I'm there, I'm shopping, and I don't want my bargaining power spoiled by a camera hanging around my neck. We had finished buying, but we had to walk past the shoe men in the courtyard. One man told me I could buy his shoes for "only 1,000 ma'am!" Hmmm, a 10 cent pair of shoes? I'll take 20. I didn't even try to bargain with him. I knew I'd end up paying more than I really wanted to for some shoes I didn't really want.

So anyway, the clothes we got didn't fit, and we had to shop more another day! Whee!